Istanbul

Fener & Balat

0 galleries · 1 museum · 0 places

About this district

Two old neighbourhoods on the Golden Horn's southern shore, packed tight between the Byzantine land walls and the water. Balat was the Jewish quarter, Fener the Greek one, and both wear their layered history on the street: steep lanes of narrow houses painted every colour, a Greek Orthodox patriarchate still functioning behind high walls, synagogues and churches and mosques within a few minutes of each other. In the last decade the colour drew the cameras, and the murals came — Balat is now one of the city's densest street-art quarters, art applied straight onto the old façades. Up the hill at the edge of the walls stands the Kariye Mosque, the former Chora church, holding the finest Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul.

Galleries

No published galleries in this district yet.

Museums

Places

No published places in this district yet.

An open, columned tomb pavilion with a padlocked iron gate standing on one side and no walls around it, so the locked gate can simply be walked around.
Editorial

Nasreddin: The Trickster Everyone Claims

A padlocked gate with no walls, two rival graves, and stories told among two dozen peoples: how the wise fool of the Islamic world became a shape every culture fills with itself.

In Akşehir, a tomb said to hold Nasreddin Hodja stands in an open pavilion behind a heavy padlocked gate — with no wall on either side. It is the perfect monument to a man who may not be in it. The stories told under his name belong to more than one tradition and more than one century: Turkish, Persian, Arab, Central Asian, Uyghur. Reformist satirists, Soviet novelists, Chinese animators and UNESCO have each tried to give him a fixed home.