Bağdat Caddesi

Bağdat Caddesi runs fourteen kilometres along the Marmara shore, and for a good stretch of it — Suadiye, Caddebostan, Bostancı — it is the Asian side's answer to İstiklal, a wide, tree-lined boulevard of flagship stores, cafés and apartment blocks for the well-off. It is glossy where Kadıköy is scruffy. The art here reflects that: a scatter of commercial galleries along and just off the avenue, serving the collectors who live in the neighbourhoods around it. This is not a walkable cluster you take in an hour — it is a long boulevard you move along, gallery to gallery, between the shopfronts.