Yemen

Coffee Began in Yemen

The coffee plant is Ethiopian. But the drink — roasted, brewed, and made the center of a culture — is Yemeni.

Before the espresso machine, before the café, a Sufi in Yemen brewed a bean to stay awake for God. This is the story of how coffee became coffee — from the prayer lodges of the Shadhili order to the Red Sea port of Mocha that named a drink, and finally to the shape the Gulf poured all of it into: the dallah on the one-dirham coin.