Pharaoh's Island (Citadel of Salah al-Din)
A Crusader and Ayyubid fortress on a granite islet in the Gulf of Aqaba, off the coast of Taba.
A fortress in the sea
Pharaoh's Island (Gezirat Fara'un) is a small granite island in the Gulf of Aqaba, about 250 metres off the Sinai coast and some 8 kilometres south of Taba, close to the meeting point of Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. Its strategic position, controlling the sea route towards Aqaba and the land routes between Egypt, Syria and Arabia, made it a coveted stronghold.
Crusaders and Saladin
In 1116, the Crusader king Baldwin I of Jerusalem built a fortress on the island, known as the Île de Graye, to control the Gulf. Around 1170, the island was captured by Salah al-Din (Saladin), who rebuilt and strengthened the fortress as part of his campaigns against the Crusader states; it became known as the Citadel of Salah al-Din. The fortress covers much of the island, with two walled enclosures on its northern and southern hills, towers, a mosque, cisterns, a bakery and living quarters, built of local granite. Later abandoned, it was restored in the twentieth century.
Visiting
The island is reached by a short boat ride from the shore opposite. From the towers, the views take in the turquoise waters of the Gulf and the mountains of four countries. The surrounding reefs are popular with snorkellers.
Exhibo editorial
From the coast road it looks almost unreal: a small island of red granite in a sea of impossible turquoise, crowned with battlements and towers. A boat takes you across in a few minutes, and then you are climbing through a fortress built by Crusaders and rebuilt by Saladin, with four countries on the horizon.
Go in the morning when the light is clear, walk up to the highest tower for the view across the Gulf of Aqaba, and bring a mask and fins: the reefs around the island are as much of a draw as the walls.
How to find it
Pharaoh's Island lies off the Sinai coast about 8 km south of Taba, opposite a small jetty on the coast road between Taba and Nuweiba. Boats run from the jetty to the island; from the landing, paths climb to the two fortified enclosures.